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Tokyo Ramen

Ramen is one of my favourite dish. Theres nothing compared to a nice hot and rich bowl of silky noodles. Ive never came across any nice ones in Singapore. The closest you can have is JB at Crown Hotel. This is a hidden secret among many Japanese expats and the place is so well hidden away you’ll never be able to make it your own unless you know it through word of mouth. That said, its only the closest, not the best. I had a bowl in Japan once when i went skiing and i still cant forget that moment!

The following excerpt was adapted from World Ramen.net because somehow i get very hungry at wee hours and today i thought of ramen. The shops listed here are legendary. Are they really? Well lets say it made me hungry just reading the text alone. Till then, I can never tell until i eat it!

BEST RAMEN IN TOKYO JAPAN

Taishoken @ Higashiikebukuro

Speaking of legend, no ramen shop out of thousands can defeat Taishouken. Mr.Yamagishi, the owner and chef ,of Taishouken is best known as the inventor of “Tsukemen” or dip-in style ramen in the world, but his legend is not about this fact only. One of the most famous episode that has made Mr.Yamagishi the central figure of legend is a story when his beloved wife passed away around 15 years ago.Depressed so deeply with death of his dearest wife, he once decided to close down his ramen shop. After months of sabotage, when he visited his restaurant to clean up, he found numerous handwritten encouraging messages posted on the door of his ramen shop. With those messages, he finally decided to reopen his ramen shop and dedicate his rest of life to the guests of his ramen shop who revived him.

Mr. Yamagishi developed Tsukemen (called “Morisoba” at Taishouken) getting the idea from Japanese soba noodle. He cooked the stock using various ingredients like pork & chicken bone, some vegetables. Additionally some sea foods such as dried small sardines and dried mackerel are put to add Japanese flavor to the stock. The broth is seasoned basically by soy sauce, but it tastes bit sweet & sour and spicy with chili. The first slurp makes you devoted yourself to the bowl till you bottom up the two bowls.

Though Taishoken is famous for its Tsukemen ( Morisoba ), its Ramen, standard style, is ranked absolutely one of the tops in Tokyo. Not only the taste but the volume of the bowl is also a charming factor of Taishoken, which has been attracting its customers over 40 years. Its volume is almost 2 times as the usual ramen. So, ordering the large helping on the first visit is quite dangerous. You might be shocked to see the wash bowl-sized bowl served in front of you.

It is almost impossible to avoid waiting in line to eat at Taishoken.The first guest of a day is said to start waiting over 2 hours before the opening hours.Even on weekdays, you need to estimate at the shortest 30 min. If you would try on weekdays, there is no wonder even if you wait over 1 hour.

You would be approached by a guy with ordering sheet while waiting in line. You should order him what you want to order. Don’t worry. They rarely make mistakes. When finished eating, you are required to pay at the next door to the entrance. You declare what you have eaten and pay for it.

In year 2000, Mr.Yamagishi has reached his 50th anniversary of his ramen cook life. To celebrate his achievement, more than 200 people including ramen shop owners who are now enjoying good reputations and enthusiastic fans gathered at SunShine Prince Hotel. This is the first party for Ramen shop owner held by customers and other ramenshop owners. That naight, Mr. Yamgishi left another momentum step in Ramen history in Japan.

Jiro@ Mita

Ramen Jiro offers such an incomparable bowl of ramen that some Jiro fans would claim “Ramen served at Jiro is not a ramen! It is an independent food called Jiro.” Of course, food served in a bowl at Jiro is a ramen obviously, because the name of the shop is “Ramen Jiro”; and “Ramen” is on the top of the menu. But any other ramen can never substitute once you are in the mood for Jiro. In its over 30years-history, Ramen Jiro have produced numerous Jiro addicts, who pass down legends of Jiro generation to generation.

With its too strong and extraordinary characteristics, ramen at Jiro cannot suit everyone’s taste at all. Our experience says 1 out of 2 Japanese would not accept it favorably. Its noodle is 3-4 times thicker than standard ramen in Tokyo and its volume is at least 2 times than the other shop. The broth is full-bodied with essence extracted from pork, meat and fat, that best matches the soy sauce’s saltiness. “Rough” and “Wild” are the appropriate words to describe Jiro’s ramen and express its attractiveness.
At Jiro, dynamically sliced Chashu called “Buta” (literally means Pig!), which is simmered soft and then seasoned in soy sauce, is topped on ramen along with handful of boiled vegetables (cabbage & bean sprouts). No Menma or no green onion is topped, just for your information. Its appearance is overwhelming as if it is challenging eaters.

Located near from Keio University, the shop is always crowded with students. Especially on Saturdays, ex-students who graduated from the university but could not from Jiro would return and join the crowd, making the waiting line longer than on weekdays. Without doubt, Jiro is one of the most beloved ramen shops by its customer. Its popularity is proven by the fact that several web-sites are developed by its customers on their own initiatives and lively discussions have been kept on everyday.<

The ordering system at Jiro is quite unique and lessons in advance are required. You need to buy a meal ticket from the vending machine located at the entrance. Jiro offers only one type of broth and taste, so the only variation is helping of noodle and “Buta.” So you would select one out of 6 choices. Sometimes the chef might speak to you even before you take a seat He is just asking you size of helping of your choice, so your reply should be “Dai! ( large)”or “Shou! (Normal).”"Shou” is strongly recommended when visiting there for the first time, because ramen at Jiro is more stomach striking than it looks. After taking a seat, place a ticket on the counter. You will be served a glass of water, then wait till the ramen is coming, When the ramen is ready, a young clerk would ask you request for extra toppings. Extra free toppings are extra vegetable “Yasai”, fat “Abura”, and chopped garlic “Nin-niku”. The only condiment on the table is grained white pepper, though you can adjust saltiness by asking “Karma! (More salty!)” when asked.After finishing eating, you are advised to put the bowl and the glass which you used back on the counter, and wipe the counter clean. It is considered to be etiquette at Ramen Jiro.

Jiro’s disciples have opened their own shops, then there are over10 Jiroes in metropolitan Tokyo and its suburbs. Though no shop has reproduced the exactly same taste as Mita-Honten, some of them are enjoying good reputations among old Jiro fans. Even they seem to be enjoying the taste variation of shops. Visiting Mita-Honten might temp you to go to journey for your favorite Jiro.((c)BON 2001.1.18)

Ganso Ebisu Ramen

There are several towns called “Ramen mecca” in Tokyo, where some popular ramen shops are comteting with each other at high level and frequently intorooduced in TV programs and magazines. Ogikubo is one of the most famous Ramen mecca. In last several years, some towns have emerged as followers, which are Nakano, Takadanobaba, Araiyakushiji, Nishi-shinjuku etc.
Ebisu is one of the pioneers of “Ramen mecca” amost equal to Ogikubo. And Ebisu as a Ramen mecca was obviously centered by certain Ramen shop with a name of that town, “Ebisu Ramen”.
Starting from a stall style(Yatai), tiny ramen shop, Ebisu ramen became a cetral figure in Tokyo Ramen scene in 80’s. Besides the quality of Ramen, Mr. Shibara’s (The owner & founder of this Ramen shop) serious concentration to the bowl attraced a lot of fans. With some reasons, Mr. Shibata moved his shop to Roppongi and opened “Ganso Ebisu Ramen” a few yaers ago. “Ganso” means “original ” in Japanese. As the name of the ramen shop says, Mr. Shibata’s Ramen is THE Ramen which turned the town of Ebise into Ramen mecca.
Last year, Mr. Shibata moved his Ramen shop from Roppongi to Asakusa, near from sightseeing spots.

Trying to describe Ramen at Ganso Ebisu Ramen, it is quite difficult not to use a word “careful”. Its soup is chicken and pork bone based, clear soy sauce taste. This clearness is produced by “careful ” preparation of bones such as blood removal. The carefulness is also found in its toppings. Softly simmered chashu tastes a bit sweet, but gives sharp taste of soy saurce at the same time.
Another “carefulness” is also found in the selection of noodles. Its fine noodles well-match its clear and sharp soup.
Reflecting its customers need (in this area, aged customers are major!), the volume of bowl is moderate. If you are starved to death, large helping is recommended.

To order your favorite at Ganso Ebisu Ramen, you need to buy a ticket from the vending machine located on the left-hand side of the entrance. There is no Engllish on the button, so copying and bringing this page is a good idea to identify each button of the machine.
After you get the ticket, just place it on the counter. Then Mr. Shibata or his staff will come and take it. A few minutes later, the bowl will be placed in front of you. Now get yourself devoted to it.(BON 2001.4.22)

Sabuchan

 

There are several factors which make the ramen shop popular among customers such as deliciousness, volume, and reasonable price. Sabuchan has been kept on offering these three factors for more than a few decades. Actually its ramen costs only 450yen. (Average price of ramen is 600yen in Tokyo area.) But very few people order just ramen at Sabuchan. Their favorite is “Hanchan-Ramen” (The combination of a bowl of ramen & a half portion of fried rice ), which Mr. Kinoshita, the owner & the chef of Sabuchan, firstly introduced a long time ago. The menu has been adapted by many ramen shop all over Japan and makes this ramen shop worth of being called a Legendary ramen shop.

Ramen at Sabuchan can be described as “Tokyo Classic” whose broth is soy sauce taste based on chicken bone stock .The noodles here are fine and best match its clear and sharp soup. Its toppings simply consist of chashu and menma. No waste!
Ramen at Sabuchan is far from sophistication in that it is using artificial flavor supplement which is being avoided by newly opened ramen shops.
But it never means Ramen at Sabuchan is out of fashion. Sabuchan’s popularity has been already proved by its long waiting line which never disappears.

Hanchan

The partner of ramen, “Hanchan”, is worth of trying. It is seasoned by the same soy source based sauce. No wonder of going well with the ramen. Also it satisfies your stomach as well as your mouth without hurting your wallet. Some may complain taste at Sabuchan is too salty, though, this reflects the traditional Japanese ramen flavor.

There is no shop sign at Sabuchan. But you do not have to worry. There is always a waiting line in front of the shop and you can easily identify Sabuchan with it. The ordering system is simple and easy. Just say what you want to order when taking a seat after waiting for a while. Payment is also. Just pay for what you have eaten when leaving. Sabuchan (Also, the Nickname of the chef!) is always in front of you and watching you enjoying the bowls. He has a great memory and remembers his customers. Even when visiting his ramen shop after several months interval, he remembers you. Why don’t you visit once and become a “Sabuchan’s regular customer.”

Harukiya

 

Back in the late 80’s, so-call “gourmet” boom spread all over Japan. People swarmed at well-reputed restaurants at that time including Ramen shops; especially those located in the most renowned Ramen Mecca, Ogikubo. Believe it or not, sightseeing tour buses stopped by at a ramen eatery, Harukiya, which is obviously one of the most famous not among the numerous numbers of competitive shops in this area but also all over Japan.
The founder of Harukiya used to be a Soba craftsman and introduced his soba making skills to his ramen recipe. His ramen, combined of traditional Japanese taste and exotic Chinese taste, grasped the people’s heart successfully. In fact, Harukiya has been playing the leading role in this ramen Mecca since its foundation right after the World War II.

Harukiya’s ramen best characterizes itself with its aroma of dried bonito and dried small sardine, both of which are usually used fo soup stock of traditional Japanese cuisine. It is no longer sticking out among several thousand of shops in Tokyo, since this type of soups are ubiquitous, as a result of late comers’ imitating.

People are always forming a line in front of Harukiya. It seems you do not have any chance to avoid waiting in a line to experience the legendary ramen. Accustomed to a long waiting line, Harukiya has applied an ordering system to shorten customers waiting time. You will be approached by a shop clerk with the menu in his hand (in Japanese, of course) when you are around the top of the line. All you have to do is to name your order. Since ramens with extra toppings such as Chashu or Wantan are pretty expensive at Harukiya, my recommendation is to start with standard ramen unless your pocket is packed with yen bills.

Harukiya is rumored to be the model of ramen shop that was depicted in the worldwide famous ramen movie “Tampopo”. However, no likeness can be found between “Tampopo” and Harukiya, both in terms of their ramens and their history. This groundless rumor itself proves how strongly Harukiya is representing ramen shops in this ramen realm. (2001. 7.13 BON)

Taishoken @ Eifukuchou

To be qualified as legendary shops, they are required to meet either one of the following requirements; 1) created new menu which has been succeeded by others and become a new genre of ramen, or, 2) formed a power group by fostering many disciples to open their own shops with similar recipe.

Taishoken@Eifukucho is the typical legendary shop which cleared the 2nd requirement. Actually there are so many ramen shops named Taishoken which are from Eifukucho that even ramenists whose minds are always occupied by ramen related topics can not comprehend how many.

NOTE) Taishoken@Higashiikebukuro, the other legendary ramen shop, has nothing to do with Taishoken@Eifukucho introduced here.

There is nothing difficult to find Taishoken@Eifukucho. Stepping out the exit of Eifukuchou station of Inokashira line, you will find a long-lined ramen shop in front of you. With its long history of being a popular shop, this ramen shop is the landmark of this small residential town, so that ramen lovers would recognize the town as the home of Taishoken.

After waiting in a line, you will be invited inside, but that won’ t be the end. The waiting line usually lasts even inside of the shop. You should wait till being called. After taking a seat, the procedure is rather simple since the menu is not really various. Just order your favorite. That’s it!

Ramen at Taishoken@Eifukucho is memorable in many meanings. First, you will be astonished with the size of the bowl served in front of you. It is like a washing bowl filled with plenty of soup and massive amount of noodles, 2 times more than standard. Second, you will be surprised with hotness of its soup.Since its surface is covered with oil (melted lard), the soup does not issue vapor, it does not look hot.But watch out! It is extraordinarily hot! Careless slurp will burn you severely. Third, its soup also characterizes itself with its intense aroma of dried bonito and dried small sardines, which make regulars visit this ramen shop repeatedly despite of its long waiting time. Finally it’s noodles, thick and soft. Some of you will find it too soft. So, does BON. Long eating time due to its quantity and heat often makes noodles soak the soup excessively and makes the noodle even more soflt.
Despite the unfavorable noodles, the taste of its soup comes up to mind a few days after eating, which seems to be the magic making this ramen shop always full of ccustomers.

There is a seacret why Taishoken@Eifukucho has deveploped a power group successfully. That is its unique tarining system. Taishoken@Eifukucho is always inviting potential ramen trainee offering outragiously attactive compensation like $5,000 monthly salary and $9,000 year bonus, and $40,000 retiring allowance after 5 years. Attracted this high rewards, many applicants are triyig to get the position, but it is said only one or two can successfully get the job. They are required to pass interviewing test of the 6-7 times with the shop owner and inspected their attitudes, potential of ramen craftman, and personality throhghtfully. Would you like to try? BON will remain as a customer.(2001. 9.13 BON)

Kiraku

It is no longer unusual to run into ramen with brown-fried scallion floating on the soup of it nowadays. But several decades ago, this unfamiliar stuff must have surprised those who faced this condiment for the first time with its odd looking and captured their heart with its individual aroma.

It is unclear which ramen shop firstly introduced this condiment for ramen in Tokyo, but it is obvious Kiraku in Shibuya is the first one which became well-known not only among ramen fanatics but also among general ramen eaters with its brown-fried scallion.

As explained above, noodles at Kiraku are flat and thick, which go well with flavorful say sauce taste soup. Although they seem not to use any seafood materials for the stock, its soup tastes so complicated that experienced ramen manias cannot tell what they are. In addition, the aroma of brown-fried scallion gives another layer to the flavor, which differentiate itself from other thousand of ramen shops.

Kiraku is a ramen shop but not specialized in ramen, and carries a lot of items in its menu equivalent to one of Chinese restaurants. You might get at lost what to order, but our recommendation is that you start with ramen or chashumen with which you can enjoy Kiraku’s sticking-out characteristics most purely.
The ordering system is quite orthodox, like when a waitress come to you, just order yours. After finishing the bowl, you should go down to the cashier located at the exit on the first floor with a bill.

You’d better be informed of one thing in advance of your first visit to Kiraku, since we do not want you to get disappointed with other factors than bowl of ramen. You should not expect any friendly treatment from the shop clerks of Kiraku. They are extremely business-like and sometimes rude. But Ramen there still remains worth of trying, since there is no equivalent bowl in Tokyo. (BON 2000.6.11)


Yoshimuraya

Tonkotsu soup always reminds us of whitish broth ramen originated in Kyushu area. But another group of ramen shops offering completely different Tonkotsu-soup ramen has been enhancing its presence in these days. They are commonly called “Ie-kei”, named after its pioneer shop, “Yoshimura-ya”, since the Chinese character of “ya” in “Yoshimura-ya” can be read “ie”(meaning “house” or “family” in Japanese. “kei” means affiliated.). Since the following ramen shops of Yoshimura-ya that are serving the same type of ramen have named their shops with “ya” character as well, the group has been formed spontaneously although each ramen shop has nothing to do with each other. Although with rather short history, “Ie-kei” ramen shops have amounted to over hundreds in numbers, spreaded all over Yokohama area where Yoshimura-ya was started from and invaded even into Tokyo. “Ie-kei” ramen is regarded as a new genre due to its quite unique and identical style. Then Yoshimura-ya is now counted as an “inventor” of new ramen genre as well as legendary ramen shops introduced in World Ramen.net.

With some exceptions, the ramen served at “Ie-kei” ramen shops resembles with each other. Their soups are always pork-bone base, greasy with chicken oil, and seasoned with soy sauce and their noodles are thick and with soft texture. Also their ramens are usually garnished with a slice of chashu, boiled spinach, and 3 sheets of Nori (toasted lever). They are similar to each other even in that their chashus taste bad!
At “Ie-kei” ramen shops, you can order saltiness of soup, firmness of noodles, and quantity of oil to be added. Furthermore, on the table, grated garlic & ginger, and Toubanjan (Chinese red-chili pepper paste) are prepared so that you can adjust the taste by yourself.

Most of “Ie-kei” ramen shops places vending machines of meal tickets at the entrance. The example of Yoshimura-ya shows that the menu variation is limited to the size of helpings and the amount of chashu. So, all you need to do for ordering is to buy a ticket of your choice and place it on the counter when seated. Nothing difficult. But there is a thing you need to keep in mind before visiting Yoshimuraya.Yoshimuraya places the ticket of large helping at the most eye-catching place in the machine so that customers would choose it without intention. If you are not that hungry, you need to watch out not to get trapped.

Mr. Yoshimura, the owner & chef of Yoshimura-ya, is very well-known among Ramen lovers, because he used to be exposing himself in the mass medium quite often. He intentionally scolded his disciples, shouting at them in front of customers eating ramen. It looked to be a performance to identify himself as a serious ramen cook who never compromised his ramen’s quality.
However, he has stopped his exposure in the mass medium right after he was arrested on illegal pornography trade charges.Regardless of the owners shameful crime, Yoshimuraya seems to be still enjoying the popularity. But the reputation of the taste is not always favorable, because it is not stable due to owner’s absence from the kitchen. Hope Mr. Yoshimura will concentrate on serving good ramen not on his side-business.(BON 2001.8.5)

(Author’s Note)
Initially, I was wondering whether I should include Yoshimuraya in legendary ramen shops’ list or not, because the shop with the criminal owner is not qualified to be called a legendary ramen shop. Additionally, I personally do not like “Ie-kei” ramen. It is out of my taste. But on the second thought, I supposed that the fact Yoshimuraya is the pioneer of “Ie-kei” ramen shops is not negligible when considering the “Ie-kei” ramen shops’ presence in Toady’s ramen scene. My conclusion is to have Yoshimuraya included in legendary ramen shops but I should disclose the fact of Mr Yoshimura’s shameful crime. So It is up to you whether you should visit it or not.

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